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A Trio of Sausages


On Friday Emma Sandford picked up a pig so on Saturday and her and I cut it up, we did chops, a couple of rolled leg roasts, bellies for cooking and bacon, shoulder roasts, hocks, kept the fat and the offcuts and a shoulder for sausages.  My grandad was a butcher but he died when I was just ten, I have always felt ripped off about that as I love having a crack at butchery, but he no doubt turns in his grave every time I do! We also cooked up a brine for cider cured ham, from Hugh Fernley Wittingstall’s River Cottage Meat Book. The cure for the bacon was 500g salt, 100g brown sugar, 1 t black pepper and the zest of a lime finely sliced. 
Today Matt Sanford and I made sausages, it’s a family affair with the Sandfords
as daughter Abbey and I started some limoncello yesterday and Jade and I made the soap together last week. I was pleased to get the opportunity to show Matt  a new skill as he has been very helpful in recent years teaching me the art of keeping my rusty old bus up to standard for the COF dudes. He also gives me guidance, tools and workshop space so I can effect other small maintenance jobs on both my bus and car.  Matt is a mechanic and truck driver by trade so sausage making was completely new to him, I must say though he is a master of the art of pavlova and was game enough to give chocolate eclairs a go last week which were a roaring success.

We made three flavours using about 10 kg of pork and fat, Cumberland for Emma’s English parents who have been in lockdown with them, Matt wanted pork and apple and I was keen to have a crack at choritzo. We were not that thrilled with the Cumberland recipe so gave it a few tweaks and they turned out remarkably well. The choritzo recipe I used was from a book call Professional Charcuterie by John Kinsella and David T Harvey but it really lacked some grunt so we nearly doubled the paprika and added the cayenne pepper. We made up the apple recipe but I had made them before so had a fair idea of what we needed. The good news about sausage making is you can taste the fillings before putting them in the casings to ensure you have got the seasoning right. It is always a god idea to refrigerate your sausage overnight either the mixture before you fill the casings or the finished product to let the flavours develop, then you can freeze them. We used the Kenwood Chef which has both a mincer and sausage filler attachments to fill them and borrowed a small mincer from a friend, this gear is fine for a small batch like this. Last time I made them we had 50kg of meat so you need big gear, it was a six hour marathon even with a bigger mince and filler. Whenever I make then I always question why we but that shite from the supermarket, here are our recipes.



Pork & Apple Sausage
3 kg pork and fat, approx. 25% fat, diced

2 onions, peeled

8 apples, cored

2 C cider

2 C breadcrumbs

3 T salt

4 t black peppercorns

3 t fennel seeds toasted

Mince the pork, fat onion and apple, with a medium mincer blade. Grind the black pepper and fennel in a mortar and pestle. Thoroughly mix all ingredients together and refrigerate for an hour. Fill your casings and twist into desired length sausages.



Cumberland


2 kg pork and fat, approx. 25% fat, diced

1 C breadcrumbs

2 C cold water

2 T salt

4 t black pepper

2 t thyme

2 T sage

1 t nutmeg

½ t mace

½ t cayenne pepper

Mince the pork and fat with a medium blade, mix all ingredients together and the pass through the mincer again. Fill your casings and form sausage into three large round coils.



Choritzo

2.8 kg lean pork, diced

1.4 kg pork back fat, diced

4 t cumin seeds

3 t dried chillies chopped up

1 T coriander seeds

16 cloves

2 t black peppercorns

6 T paprika

4 T smoked paprika

1 T cayenne pepper

3 T honey

2 C red wine

¼ C salt

4 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced

Toast the cumin, chilli, coriander and black peppercorns in a dry pan and grind up in a mortar & pestle or spice grinder. Mince the pork and fat with a medium blade, add all other ingredients and mix thoroughly the pass back through the mincer. Mix by hand again and refrigerate for an hour. Fill your casings and twist into desired length sausages.

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